Hiking the Annapurna Circuit Unguided and What Comes Next
Hello mountain lovers! Have you heard of the breathtaking Himalayan peaks in Nepal that are shrouded in clouds, waiting for you to come marvel at its beauty? If you’re like me, you’ve spent some time dreaming of climbing these peaks, visiting the mountain villages and enjoying the profound silence and thin air there. A large number of questions and doubts usually take space in the mind before a plan is finally made. So here I am to answer some, and also raise some questions that you should consider, to make the most of the opportunities these mountains hold.
Some questions I answer on this article are:
- What’s some empirical data to help get an idea of the trail?
- What’s the best season to visit the mountains?
- What permits do you need?
- Do you need a guide and porter to climb these peaks? How can you navigate?
- What route should you take?
- MOST EXCITING: What other peaks can you include on this trek to make it more EPIC?
- How much would it cost?
- How I trained for the trek and my recommendations
- My tips and learnings, so that you can be more innovative in your mistakes
Most of these things I knew before I started and I would say my trek was ALMOST perfect. But there’s a few things I wish I had known earlier or done differently, to make it even better. So I’m going to share them with you!
But before I start, I want to say:
You’re absolutely capable of doing it, and you’re gonna have a hell lot of fun, even when you’re miserable. But do not take the mountains lightly.
Okay, let’s begin.
What’s some empirical data to get an idea of the trail?
Back in the day, the circuit used to start at Besisaher (alt: 760m), cross the Thorang la pass (alt:5416m) and end somewhere close to Pokhara (alt: 822m). Nowadays there’s roads on both ends, and you get to choose where you wish to start and end your trek.
Due to the huge altitude gain, the circuit is almost always performed counter clockwise, to allow your body time to acclimatize (though at the pass I met a guy who ran that morning from Muktinath to the pass. Now HE has a story to tell!).
Here’s the altitude profile to give you an idea:
The number of days the circuit takes also depends on the route you take, whether you add detours or acclimatisation days. It can be done from anywhere between 8-25 days I think. But we will go into that further later.
What’s the best season to visit the mountains?
There are two major seasons to hike in Nepal, Spring (February to May) and Autumn. (September to November). May to September sees a lot of rainfall, making the trail dangerous and the sky cloudy. November to February is winter with extremely cold weather and icy trails. The weather has been unpredictable everywhere recently, and the mountains especially.
I did the trek mid-late May and apart from some infrequent mild showers and snow, the weather was favourable. It was raining heavily in Pokhara, but thankfully most of the circuit is in the rain shadow of these wonderful mountains.
It was very cold on the high camp, but the pass was very sunny and clear when I got there. This was a true blessing as many locals and guides warned us about how cold and windy the pass gets.
What permits do you need?
To embark on the circuit you need the ACAP permit. You can get it at the permit office in Pokhara or Kathmandu. I believe you can also get it in Besisaher, but it’s better to get it all ready before you start off. You can also get it at the check post, but it costs more.
Foreigners need to pay 3000 npr for the permit, and if you’re from a SAARC country, you need to pay only 1000npr.
SAARC countries are:
- Afghanistan
- Bangladesh
- Bhutan
- India
- Maldives
- Nepal
- Pakistan
- Sri Lanka
As of May 2025, you do not need a TIMS card to do this trek. If you are getting the TIMS card, the new regulation of mandatory guide will apply. Officially, you are supposed to get both, but it is not enforced. Check the latest status with recent climbers when you are in Nepal to ensure the situation hasn’t changed.
When you leave the circuit, be sure to show the permit again at the check post and get it stamped. If you plan on continuing hiking in the Annapurna region (on one of the peaks I mention later), mention it at the check post so they can record accordingly.
Do you need a guide and porter to climb these peaks? How can you navigate?
Officially new regulations have made a guide mandatory to do this trek, but it is not currently enforced (as of May 2025).
The trails are well marked, and many offline maps feature the main and alternate trails very clearly. Unless you go in extreme seasons, you are bound to meet many other trekkers along the way.
But it is to be noted that things can go wrong in the mountains very fast, and my experience being favourable does not assure that it will be the same for you. Having someone who knows the mountains with you is a good investment. I personally do not enjoy travelling with large groups, and a private guide is insanely expensive (rightfully so), so I decided the risks were worth taking. Given another chance, I think I would do the same.
The traditional trail is marked with red and white lines, and the alternate routes are marked with blue and white lines. I did not ever get to a point of being lost.
For navigation I used Organic Maps, a free open-source fork of maps.me before it became private. I downloaded the “Nepal-West” map before starting. They also provide a paper map at the permit office.
I do not find the use of porters very ethical, as after a point the mules cannot enter and its people carrying your bags, on top of their own bags. The government has limits on how much weight a porter can carry but I did see some carrying extremely large loads. If you do choose to use the service of porters, please make sure you go with a company that is very strict with these limits, and do not scrimp on it.
What route should you take?
As you must have realised by now, there are many articles online on the circuit and the routes to take. I had consumed a few as well before I started, and I am grateful for all the info I had, but wish I knew a few things more.
To begin with, I mostly followed the itinerary on this blog.
Here’s a quick overview, but I suggest you go through the article for detailed info. It also explains a lot of the views you see on the way, giving us valuable insights we tend to miss without a guide!
- Go from Pokhara/Kathmandu to Besisaher by bus
- Go from Besisaher to Chame by Jeep
- Trek from Chame to Upper Pisang
- Trek from Pisang to Manang
- Acclimatize at Manang
- Manang to Shree Kharka
- Shree Kharka to Tilicho Base Camp
- Tilicho Base Camp to Shree Kharka via Tilicho Lake
- Shree Kharka to Ledar via Yak Kharka
- Ledar to High Camp
- High Camp to Muktinath via Thorang la pass
- Muktinath to Jomsom via Lupra
- Take a bus from Jomsom to Pokhara
Most people I met on the trail followed the same, and the guides I met on the trail had the same suggestions. The difference I mostly encountered was that (almost) everyone took the bus back from Muktinath and skipped the last stretch. But there’s a lot I want to say about it, so read on!
Some of the variations I made/wish I had made and why are:
- I did not go directly from Pisang to Manang. I broke it down and stayed at Ngawal for a day due to exhaustion. I made it up by skipping the acclimatisation day in Manang. I think both are doable, as after Ngawal the trail is mostly flat/downhill and follows the dirt path used by bikes and jeeps. Another approach people make is taking the stairs up to the monastery from Ngawal, and going to Manang from there. This trail is more challenging but offers stunning views. If I were to do it again, I would probably choose this. Here’s a GPX file for the alternate path: ngawal_manang.gpx
- I did not trek back to Shree Kharka after visiting Tilicho Lake. In my opinion it was the most exhausting day on the hike. Instead, I stayed that day at the base camp and trekked the next day to a teahouse 3km from Yak Kharka (we planned to reach Yak Kharka but had to break it down due to sudden rain). The view from Tilicho base camp was amazing on both days, and I preferred doing the landslide area refreshed in the morning. So I don’t regret this decision.
- The trail from Muktinath to Jomsom was not worth it. It was beautiful up to Lupra, and though some parts were missing due to landslides, I had a great experience walking. I didn’t meet anyone other than a shepherd on the trail. But post Lupra it’s a huge dusty highway to Jomsom, with no alternatives. After a couple of hours I hitchhiked my way to Jomsom.
- My idea was to continue hiking, to the village of Marpha and beyond, ending at Kalopani. I gave it up when I reached Jomsom and realised that the trail was just a dirt path right next to the road. I begrudgingly took the bus back. Here’s where I wish I had more info, because there is a lot more cool stuff that I could’ve done!
About Tilicho Lake…
Many people skip the detour to Tilicho Lake, and go straight from Manang to Yak Kharka. This is completely understandable as the route is prone to landslides and often has small rocks falling, which is a huge slipping hazard. This can seem especially daunting if you’re trekking alone. While I did hear the (ironically cheerful) pitter-patter of tiny rocks rolling in and out of my path, and the path seemed quite dangerous at points, I thoroughly enjoyed the day and the view at the top was absolutely breathtaking. So I am glad I did it, and I would suggest others do it, but please do use your discretion.
Alternate ways to start and end the circuit
The jeep ride from Besisaher to Chame cost me 2000 npr and took around 4 hours. The road is very bumpy, and you can take much longer depending on the road and weather conditions.
Many people prefer to start the trek at Besisaher, skipping the jeep ride. The route would be:
- Besisaher to Bulbule
- Bulbule to Jagat
- Jagat to Dharapani
- Dharapani to Chame
I only have second hand (and map) information on this. It seems there are stretches with beautiful views on this route, but most of it is on the dusty trail frequented by the jeeps, engulfing you in dry dust and probably being very annoying. Another alternative is to take jeep to Dharapani and trek to Chame on day 1. But whether or not it is worth it, I have heard mixed opinions from those who did it, so I leave it to your discretion (and research).
MOST EXCITING: What other peaks can I include on this trek to make it more EPIC?
Okay, now most importantly, what are these cool additions I keep insinuating about?
- Hike up Poon Hill
- Add a detour to Annapurna Base Camp (why say adieu to the mountains before you have to?)
You may have read about these on other guides but I did not even know about it until the end of my trail. So let me give you all the info I have since accumulated on this.
Poon Hill
Poon Hill is a popular hill station/view point to take in the breathtaking view of the sun rising about the mountain ranges. You see our now familiar peaks of Annapurna I-III, Gangapurna and Dhaulagiri, but also other peaks, including the famous Fish Tail peak (Machapuchare).
Here’s the itinerary continuation:
- From Muktinath, you can take a bus to Tatopani. It’s a 6-8 hour drive through rocky, dusty roads, which may feel a little less rewarding after all the time on your feet. Tatopani is known for its natural hot springs, though I also hear it’s too hot and artificial to feel worth the journey. But for us, there’s another reason to go there!
- Next day, walk from Tatopani to Ghorepani, through the charming Thakurli village. The journey takes around 6-8 hours, and goes through farmlands and forests.
- Early next morning, start the hike to Poon Hill, to see the sunrise over the mountains! It’s a steep uphill climb, but to watch the sun rise over the Annapurnas one last time would be worth it. You will see more people up there, as many come from Pokhara just to the hill as a short two day hike.
- After the sunrise, walk back down to the village of Ulleri, from where you can get a bus down to Pokhara, ending this beautiful escape into nature.
Annapurna Base Camp
Why choose one when you can do both?
Annapurna Base Camp is the other massively popular and rewarding multi-day trek done in the ACAP region. It is a challenging trek in itself, but one could in fact add it to the circuit, for one last hurray before you leave the mountains in the distance. I did not even know this was an option when I was on the trek, and if I did I would 100% have done it. I was exhausted and bruised up after the trek, but also feeling very sad that I could not continue further (because the trail I had set out for myself was now replaced by dusty roads). If I knew I could have just taken a bus and combined it with another few days staying in the cozy tea houses in unassuming villages with mountains towering over me, I would have jumped at the opportunity.
That said, ABC involves climbing a lot of steps, which can feel very exhausting and repetitive. Being a peak hike, you are bound to run into more people on the way, which can make the experience feel less like an escape into nature after our time on the circuit. But I want to let you know that the option exists, if you are willing and enthusiastic to pick it.
Here’s the itinerary continuation:
- After (or skipping) Poon Hill, trek to Tatopani, instead of ending at Ulleri village.
- Trek from Tatopani to Chhomrong
- Trek from Chhomrong to Himalaya Hotel
- Trek to ABC via Macchhaouchhre Base Camp (!!!)
- Trek to Bamboo
- Trek from Bamboo to Matgque
- Drive from Matgque to Pokhara, ending this wonderful adventurous journey.
Honestly, how does this itinerary not give you goosebumps??
I could not find too many guides about this trail even now, but this is the rough itinerary that you could follow. Open up your offline maps, save these stop points and look at how the trails are between them!
How much would it cost me to climb them?
The costs you encounter for this trek depend on how many days you stay and meals you have. Apart from the high camp and Jomsom, I got free accommodation in the tea houses, in exchange for having 2 meals there. If you are trekking in October-November, when the trails are busier, you may not be able to work out this deal (doesn’t hurt to ask though).
The meal prices are standardised by the government, and almost all teahouses have the same menu and price list. But beware of the fancy places that have a bakery in them, as they seem to have found a way to circumvent the rule.
For me the entire costs, including the permit and the bus to and fro, was 25000 npr, divided among the 12 days. I did splurge on some apple pies and brownies along the way, so I’m sure you can make it cheaper if you try.
But since there are no ATMs along the way and cards are not accepted till Muktinath, you must carry enough cash for the trail. I would carry about 3000-4000 npr for each day, just to be safe, in case I couldn’t work out a deal with the teahouses.
How I trained for the trek and my recommendations
Now, this is an entirely subjective topic. I was back home, in Kerala, in peak summer with temperatures going up to 40°C, so outdoor practice was mostly limited.
I used to workout everyday in my room, and some movements that I believe helped a lot were:
- Weighted squats
- Weighted step ups
- Backpack rows
- Backpack deadlifts
- Pike pushups
- Weighted stairs
I was not able to go walking outside with my backpack due to the weather, but if you can I definitely suggest you do it. If not, practice weighted stair climbs daily, along with targeting the muscle groups.
Going uphill all day with a heavy backpack is a huge challenge, especially in the altitude. You need to train your cardio, and your legs, but also your shoulders and back to be able to carry this weight comfortably. Also don’t forget to warm up and stretch regularly. When a trek crosses into double digits your body starts complaining in new and innovative ways, so keeping a supple body is important.
Ensure good nutritious meals until you start the trek, and if you don’t mind the additional weight carry some protein powder to add to your morning porridge. Dal Bhat really is a super food, and I 100% agree with 24 hour, Dal bhat power.
My tips and learnings, so that you can be more innovative in your mistakes
Some final crucial insights:
- PACK LIGHT
- Every trekking blog ever says this, but it’s the hardest to follow. You don’t quite feel the entire weight of your bag until you’re a few hours into the hike. Pack what you think is essential and remove some items.
- Acclimatisation
- The air is thin at the altitude we are in, and the challenge your body faces in these conditions is dangerous, and not to be taken lightly. Be very aware of the signs of HACE, HAPE and AMS. Look out for the signs in yourself, and any friends you pick up along the way.
- Rule of thumb is: If you face very mild (slightly headache and affected sleep) or no symptoms, continue precautions and go forward. If you see significant symptoms (breathlessness, headache, etc) do not climb further. Wait or go down to lose altitude. Give your body time to recover and get used to the conditions.
- I did not take diamox, and I don’t believe you need it, but carry it with you. Drink a lot of water (around 4L per day), your body gets oxygen through water. Do not sleep during the day, stay outside, get air into your body. When you stay indoors you are rebreathing the depleted air. Try to go for acclimatisation walks when staying in Manang, Tilicho Base Camp and High Camp. Go to a place at a higher altitude, and come back down to the teahouse. This gets your body used to the gain in altitude and recovery.
- Water purification
- If you can, bring purification tablets, or better yet, a bottle that purifies water. You want to be drinking a lot of water on the trail.
- I did not do any water purification, as the water in the taps in tea houses comes from the running streams and the locals drink the same. Sometimes there was one or two live insects in my water, but I took it as a good sign. Ideally, I would use a bottle with filter.
- Insurance
- Many travel/medical insurances do not apply after an altitude threshold. If the worst happens and you need a helicopter to rescue you, not having to break the bank for it could be a slight consolation. A good adventure insurance that covers this trek is this one.
- Stretching
- DO NOT SKIP STRETCHING.
- I had so many aches and pains by day 3, and once I started stretching regularly before and after the hike, they all went away. It was the best thing I did for my body during the hike.
- Trekking poles
- I had two poles with me, but on my last two days I was too lazy to pull them out for the descents and I hurt my knee pretty badly. I suggest you take out the poles, even if it’s slower to descend with them. It’s to safeguard your joints from the constant shock from the ground.
That’s all, lovely rock hopper! I’m so glad you made it till here, it tells me you’re actually preparing yourself for this experience. I am truly excited for you, and I hope I was able to impart some valuable information. If you have any questions, suggestions, or just want to share about your cool experience with me, please reach out! I love interacting with fellow walkers.
Have a wonderful time!
